Archive for the ‘Articles’ Category

Article: Responsible Dog Ownership

Thursday, August 23rd, 2007

Responsible dog ownership starts BEFORE you purchase or adopt your new dog. You should spend as much time as possible researching the different breeds to find which is most suitable to you and your lifestyle, as well as individual breeders before deciding on one that will provide you with a healthy, happy puppy, and as much after sales assistance as you require.

Here are a few other things to keep in mind:

  • Prepare for the arrival of your new pup or dog BEFORE you bring him home ie: make sure you have the food that he is used to eating, a collar, a lead, food and water bowls, appropriate toys and a bed for him to sleep.
  • Obtain the telephone number of a local vet (preferably one with references from another dog owner) and stick it to your fridge permanently. It is also a good idea to have your new puppy vet checked as soon as possible as some breeders health guarantee’s, particularly for communicable diseases are only for a few days.
  • Contact your local council to get your dog’s licence tags(so he doesn’t get destroyed just in case he escapes and is picked up by a ranger) and for details as to Dog laws in your area. The council will also be able to advise you of areas which are suitable for exercising dogs, on and off lead.
  • Make sure your dog is wormed regularly (every three months for intestinal worms, as directed for heart worm) and is vaccinated yearly.
  • Make sure your dog receives good quality food and that fresh water is always available.
  • One of the most responsible things that you can do as a dog owner is take your dog to OBEDIENCE classes. Not only will your dog respond to you better, but you will also be able to socialize your dog with other dogs which is very important, and it may well save your dogs life if he gets loose on a busy street and you are able to call him back.
  • If you are not planning to show your dog or breed from it PLEASE have it DE-SEXED regardless of whether it is male or female. This will not only decrease the number of unwanted and abandoned puppies but can also prevent your pet from developing life threatening health problems, including infections and cancer that affect BOTH sexes.
  • Do not breed from your dog unless you have received an unbiased judgement on your dogs suitability from at LEAST one EXPERT breeder. The breeder you purchased your dog from would be a good place to get a judgement from and they should also be able to suggest a suitable partner (particularly a Stud dog if you have a bitch) IF your dog is suitable for breeding. You should only breed in order to improve the breed - NOT for any possible monetary gain, or because it would be a good experience for the kids
  • Never leave a dog in a car unattended. Dogs can die in less than ten minutes in a hot car.
  • If you cannot completely control your dog at all times (even if a cat runs under its nose!!) please keep it on a lead unless you are in an approved off-lead area. You may prevent your dog from being hit by a car, mauled by another dog or from being a nuisance to another person.
  • If your dog makes a mess in a public place - please clean it up, particularly if it is on someone’s front lawn!
  • Don’t let your dog wander around your neighborhood- it might get hit by a car, picked up by a ranger, mauled in a dog fight or eat poisoned bait, not to mention picking up worms and diseases.
  • Be courteous to other people - just because you don’t mind Rover jumping and slobbering all over you, does not mean that other people will appreciate the same treatment.
  • Ensure that you have a secure, well fenced yard for your dog with adequate shelter from the elements. Regularly check the fencing and repair any damaged areas that may allow your dog to escape or injure itself - also check behind shrubbery along the fence line in case your dog is digging under the fence.
  • The best identification is a micro-chip so that even if the dog looses his collar, he can be returned to you. Collar identification should include your local council tag, as well as an identification tag with contact information to allow for quick return if he/she gets lost. The information tags should have at least ONE telephone number, but preferably two - yours and either a friend, relative or vet in case your dog is injured - and your address (make sure you keep these current!). If your dog requires medical treatment, this can be inscribed on the tag if there is enough space and is likely to ensure your dog is returned to you quickly.
  • Include your dog in your will. By this, I mean you need to make provisions for the welfare and continued care of your dog in case anything happens to you. Another good idea, particularly if you live alone, is to keep a message in your wallet/purse (with your own ID) advising that you have a dog at home that needs to be cared for in case you are involved in an accident. If alternative care is unavailable for your pet, the RSPCA or other rescue organization will be able to help.
  • If you know that your dog is aggressive or unfriendly to people or other dogs do something about it. Keep your dog on a lead when you take it for a walk, warn other people before they get too close and seek professional training advice. In many cases, dog aggression can be avoided by proper socialization and obedience training during the puppy stage, but older dogs may need help from a canine behaviourist.
  • By following the simple suggestions above will help you be a responsible dog owner. And remember, as with most things a little common sense goes a long way!

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    Article: How To Pick a Puppy

    Wednesday, August 22nd, 2007

    Picking a Puppy - Things to Think About Before Purchasing a Dog

    Well dear readers, as you know from reading my previous post Adopting a Rescue Dog we will be adding a new dog to our family sometime in the hopefully not to distant future. Although the time is not right just yet, I can’t help myself and I have been looking at different dog rescue websites and doing a bit of a dog training ‘refresher’ course (gotta be prepared - and yes I would have made a good boy scout. If I was a boy;).

    It really saddens me that there are just so many dogs (and other animals) in rescue because they have been treated as if they are ‘disposable’ possessions. I know there are exceptions and some people have legitimate reasons for surrendering an animal (and that is of course a better option that dumping the poor creature somewhere), but many animals end up in rescue because their owners made irresponsible decisions before and after obtaining the animal.

    How To Pick a Puppy is the first of several articles that I wrote in 1996 (which are just as relevant today) relating to responsible dog ownership, choices and behaviour that I am going to post on my blog, and I hope that they will help my readers who might also be considering a new addition to the family. If there is any important point you think I have missed, please let me know and I will add it in!

    Picking a Puppy

    I am a dog lover not a Dog expert, but from a number of years research, reading books, speaking to dog breeders and dog owners I believe that the following will assist you in your selection. I will make NO attempt to suggest suitable breeds, my aim is to help the prospective buyer understand that just because you like the look of a particular breed DOES NOT make it a suitable because there are many variables that need to be considered other than just the appearance of the breed.

    Owning a dog is a LIFELONG commitment and there are a number of things that you should think about BEFORE you start looking to make sure you choose the breed of dog that is the right one for you. There may be MANY breeds that are not suitable for your lifestyle, and if you put a little thought into the decision you may save yourself a lot of heartache, not to mention the effects that a wrong decision may have on the poor dog. I believe that if more people thought before they bought we would not have anywhere near the number of abandoned dogs that we do. So, ask yourself these questions…..

    WHY DO YOU WANT A DOG?

    You need to think about the reasons that you are considering getting a dog. Do you want a companion only, a lap dog, a friend for the kids or a guard dog? What do you want to do with the dog - show, obedience training, hiking, bring in the cows for milking etc? Not all breeds are suitable for every activity.

    HOW MUCH TIME PER WEEK DO YOU HAVE TO DONATE TO A DOG?

    Different breeds have different time requirements in regards to exercise, grooming and training, and in a lot of breeds, skimping on time spent on the dog can have disastrous effects, for the dog, for yourself and for your possessions.

    HOW BIG IS YOUR YARD AND HOW HIGH ARE YOUR FENCES?

    This will determine the size of dog you should be looking at. You need to make sure that your dog is not going to be able to get out of your yard and possibly hit by a car, picked up by the pound/ranger or mauled by another dog. Don’t forget that some small breeds of dogs can jump very well. I know of several small Terriers who are able to scale six foot fences, but alternatively, some very large breeds of dogs are not very active and may do well in a small yard.

    DO YOU WANT AN INSIDE OR AN OUTSIDE DOG?

    This will determine not only the breed, but also the size of the dog you get. If you want an inside dog, consider the size of your house - will a large breed take up every available inch of space? Is a small but very boisterous dog likely to knock over your priceless China collection? Looks and size can be deceiving, many small breeds are not suitable for apartment living due to their activity level, while some of the larger breeds can be excellent for small houses or apartments because they are real couch potatoes.

    Other breeds need human companionship and are not suitable for leaving outside all the time, neither are breeds that are not suitable for your environment due to coat length, or susceptability to heat exhaustion.

    DO YOU OR ARE YOU PLANNING TO HAVE CHILDREN?

    Some breeds are not recommended for young children particularly, and this is a very important question to consider. The wrong choice could permanently disfigure your child for life and result in your dog being destroyed. Unfortunately, there will always be exceptions in every breed and quite often children are not aware of the implications of fulling a dogs ears or tail, so I feel that no matter how much you may trust your dog, never leave children unsupervised with ANY dog until they are old enough to effectively command the dog - I would suggest until the early teens - depending on the child. I know many people would probably disagree with me on this point, but I personally do not think that it is worth the risk to either child or dog.

    DO YOU HAVE OTHER PETS?

    To avoid bloodshed of dearly loved family pets this is a good point to consider when determining which breed of dog is right for you. Some breeds get on very well with other species, but a lot DON’T so ask the breeder before you buy.

    WHAT SORT OF CLIMATE DO YOU LIVE IN?

    This is an important consideration for the sake of the dog and really is just common sense. Most breeds that originate in cold climates have very thick coats and will suffer terribly in very hot conditions. Likewise, breeds that have very thin coats, or in the case of some breeds that have very little body hair at all, may be particularly susceptible to the cold - they may also be susceptible to sunburn and skin cancers. If you have a climate controlled house or kennel where the dog will spend most of its time, this may not be such a problem.

    HOW MUCH MONEY ARE YOU PREPARED TO REGULARLY SPEND?

    Some breeds have a higher maintenance level for food, veterinary assistance, medical tests, grooming and equipment. Every dog requires food, worming, nail clipping, some level of grooming, vaccinations, hopefully sterilization unless you plan to show or breed, and every dog is at risk of unexpected illness and injury. I am not suggesting that only rich people should have dogs, but if you don’t have or are not prepared to spend a great deal of money, then maybe a long haired breed that requires clipping every six weeks and may be susceptible to ear and eye infections because of the long hair, may not be the most suitable breed for you.

    WHAT TEMPERAMENT DO YOU WANT?

    As with people, dogs have different temperaments, and although no dog will ever match a breed standard 100%, most characteristics, including temperament tend to appear reliably in pure bred dogs. This includes independence - some breeds are very dependant on human company and affection, while others are very independent.

    HOW MUCH EXPERIENCE HAVE YOU HAD WITH DOGS?

    Some breeds of dogs are very dominant and are not usually recommended for first time dog owners. This is because unless you are able to establish dominance early in puppy hood you and your dog will forever be at odds with each other (and this is NOT achieved by physical abuse). Being able to establish dominance is dependant on your understanding that dogs are pack animals and have a very strong hierarchy, and it is important to understand ‘pack logic’ from the dog’s point of view. Many interesting books and articles have been written on this topic, and it is a great idea to read a few, regardless of which breed you purchase, as they will help you to understand some of your dogs behaviour.

    Once you have thought about the above points and anything else that is relevant to you and your family, you should be able to narrow your choices down by doing a bit of research. Surf through the net looking for individual breed pages and FAQ’s, read some books and contact registered Dog Breeders for information.

    If you have done all of the above, here are some points when it comes to picking your puppy:

    * NEVER BUY ON A WHIM!!!!!!

    * NEVER Buy and animal as an unexpected gift or Christmas Present!!!

    * DON’T BUY FROM A PET SHOP, PUPPY MILL OR UNREGISTERED BREEDER.

    * Telephone the breeders and ask about their breed. Most will be happy to answer any questions you might have, and will advise you of the suitability of their breed to your situation. Don’t be afraid to let the breeder know if you do not have a lot of experience with dogs.

    * Go and have a look at several different breeds if you are still not sure which one is right for you. This can best be achieved by attending an All Breed dog show. This will help you decide which breed you like, as well as which breeder’s dogs you prefer.

    * Decide if you want a pet or a show quality pup. This may determine how long you have to wait and how much you will have to pay - show or breeding quality pups usually being fewer in number and more expensive.

    * Have a look at the health of the other dog’s in the kennel. Are they lively, alert and friendly. (Don’t forget, most kennelled dogs will bark at strangers and some breeds will very rarely look friendly, but you can get a general idea - dogs that look down right viscous might not be good parents for a dog that is going to be a family pet).

    * Does the kennel look clean and sanitary?

    * Do the dogs react happily to the owner/handler or do they cringe away, snap or growl?

    * Puppies should be nicely rounded in shape, without being overly fat or skin and bones.

    * Most healthy pups will have shiny, alert eyes and healthy looking coats.

    * Check that the puppies are not infested with ticks and fleas.

    * Ask to see both parents. It is common for breeders to use a stud dog that they do not own, but they may have photos of the dog. Quite often, the bitch will not look in ’show condition’ after whelping a litter. The reason for this is that whelping and feeding a litter places huge demands on the bitch, so she may be a little thin (but not skin and bones), and may ‘blow’ her coat (shed) due to the hormonal changes caused by pregnancy and milk production. She should however, still appear happy, lively, confident, interact well with the owner/breeder and show no signs of illness.

    * Ask the breeder if they have any references from people who have bought their puppies in the past.

    * Make sure that you see all appropriate paperwork including parents pedigrees, medical certificates for tests such as hip dysplasia if this is relevant to the breed, as well as the puppies pedigree papers and vet certificate confirming worming and vaccinations. Be very sceptical of any breeder who is not willing to show you paperwork - if you are unable to see the papers, the breeder may not actually have them! Many people are not concerned about having ‘papers’ for their pet, however, you do want to make sure that if you are paying the price for a pure bred dog, then that is what you are getting. Also, if the breed that you are buying are prone to certain medical conditions, you want to make sure that the parents have been ‘cleared’ by a vet, and the puppies checked (depending on the relevant condition) to ensure that there is the smallest chance possible that the pup you buy will develop the condition.

    It is also a good idea to ask to see the membership card for the canine controlling body (Kennel Council) for the state/country that you are in.

    REMEMBER: It is ultimately your responsibility to research the breeds you are interested in as well as the individual breeder that you finally purchase from. While it is your right to ask as many questions as possible, it is also the breeders right (and responsibility) to ask you questions as well, so don’t be offended if the breeder gives you the third degree!

    Finally, if you do not want or cannot afford a pedigree dog from a registered breeder, there are many reputable dog rescue services that you can adopt from rather than obtaining a dog from a pet shop or backyard breeder. You can obtain a dog of any age from a rescue, (pure breed or mixed) and usually the people who run the rescue will be able to give you some information about each dog they have. If you adopt a dog from a rescue, you may well save it from being destroyed, particularly the older or not so ‘pretty and cute’ dogs which usually don’t get adopted quickly. If you would really like to make a difference to a rescue dog, you might also consider giving a dog that has been mistreated and abused a comfortable, loving home for the remainder of its days - you would be amazed at the love and devotion that you will receive in return.

    Subscribe to this feed Animal Art By Michelle

    To purchase a variety of wall art, greeting cards and t-shirts featuring my art and photography, Please visit my RedBubble Gallery. Purchases can be made in different currencies (USD, Euro, GBP, AUD) and can be shipped worldwide.A variety of wall art, gift ware and apparel featuring my artwork is also available in my
    GiftShop at CafePress.

    Article: Animal Rescue - Charity Donation Program

    Friday, April 27th, 2007

    There are so many animals of different kinds that end up in Rescue due to abandonment or abuse worldwide, not to mention the huge number of wild animal species affected by human behaviour and destruction of habitats. Most of the Rescue and Charity Organizations that help theses animals depend solely on donations to help them continue with their work.

    While I have supported various animal charities for many years, I guess like many animal lovers, Ive always wanted to be able to do more to help more of these organizations continue with their wonderful (and desparately needed) work. The problem of course is that there are so many worthwhile animal charities that need help, from dogs and cats to native Australian animals, tigers, pandas, wolves and endangered wildlife worldwide, how is it possible to help all those in need of financial assistance?

    I am happy to create and donate artwork for fundraising purposes, however due to the time it takes to create my very detailed portraits, there is a limit to how many I have time to fit into my schedule. Also, rather than donate to just a couple of organizations I would like to help as many as possible as possible, and so I have come up the idea of an “Art for Animal Rescue” Referal Program in which $15.00 AU of each paid pet portrait commission referred to me by any organization in the program will be donated back to that organization.

    A selection of different size website links, banners and graphics are available for Groups to use on their website or newsletter, and a small poster promoting my “Art for Animal Rescue” program can be sent out for display on a noticeboard if the group has a public facility.

    The program is open to non-profit, no-kill groups, including animal breed clubs that do rescue work, wildlife groups and registered charities. International organizations/rescue groups are welcome to join the program (must be able to accept payment through Paypal).

    If you would like to support your local animal charity, please ask them to sign up for my “Art for Animal Rescue” program so that I can support them to.

    Michelle

    Article: All About Pastels

    Monday, November 27th, 2006

    The combination of soft pastels and velour paper is quickly becoming my preferred medium and support for animal artwork, and I thought it would be good to provide some information about pastels as a Fine Art medium.

    Pastels are pure finely ground pigments that are rolled or shaped into sticks using a soft binder to hold the particles together.  The pigments used to create pastel sticks are the same pigments used to create all coloured art mediums including oil and acrylic paints.  Pastels as a Fine Art medium have been used for hundreds of years by many of the Masters, including Maurice Quentin de La Tour, Degas, Manet, Toulouse-Lautrec, Whistler, Cassatt and Matisse among many others.

    Although some people refer to them as ‘chalk’ pastels, this really is a misnomer as pastels are not anything like the chalk sticks you will find in a classroom - nor do they only come in soft light ‘pastel’ colours, they do in fact come in many vibrant colours

    According to Answers “pigment applied with pastel does not change in colour value, the final effect can be seen immediately. Pastel remains on the surface of the paper and thus can be easily obliterated unless protected by glass or a fixative spray of glue size or gum solution. When pastel is applied in short strokes or linearly, it is usually classed as drawing; when it is rubbed, smeared, and blended to achieve painterly effects, it is often regarded as a painting medium.”

    There are several types of pastels available to artists as defined by Answers:

    Soft pastels — This is the most widely used form of pastel. The sticks have a higher portion of pigment and less binder, resulting in brighter colors.

    Hard pastels — These have a higher portion of binder and less pigment, producing a sharp drawing material that is useful for fine details. These can be used with other pastels for drawing outlines and adding accents.

    Pastel pencils — These are pencils with a pastel lead. They are useful for adding fine details.

    Oil Pastels - These have a soft, buttery consistency and intense colors. They are slightly more difficult to blend than soft pastels, but do not require a fixative.

    Water-soluble pastels — These are similar to soft pastels, but contain a water-soluble component, such as glycol. This allows the colors to be thinned out using a water wash.

    Personally I work mostly with soft pastels, with a few hard pastels and pencils for final line work, as the softness is very suitable for creating believeable, almost touchable animal fur.

    Finally, pastel artwork (with the exception of art that is mostly line work) is generally referred to as paintings rather than drawings, and due to the delicate nature of pastel paintings, it is very important that they are cared for properly and framed in the correct manner, with an acid free mat and behind glass so that they can be enjoyed for many years to come.

    Hahnemuhle Pastel Paper is produced in Germany using inert synthetic fibres on an acid free backing sheet.  This beautiful paper actually feels like velour fabric, and because of the nap (long fibres) it holds most pastels very well.  Of the soft pastels that I use, I choose the harder ones (if that makes sense) as some of the more softer brands are more delicate when used on velour paper. This velour paper comes in a range of colours that are all lightfast (so they are resistant to fading) and they all have acid free backing which prevents yellowing over time.

    So there you have it, pastels and velour paper, my new favourite medium and support for animal artwork!


    Article: Resources For Artists

    Sunday, April 9th, 2006

    I thought it would be a good idea to post some links to various Artists Resources websites that I frequent - I hope that you find them as useful as I have! This post will be edited from time to time when I add new links, but I will also place a link to this post in the links section under ‘Artist Resources’ on the right hand side of the blog for easy reference in the future.

    Discussion Forums:

    Wetcanvas - One of the largest and best Artist’s websites on the internet
    Australian Art Forum - Online forum for Australian Artists
    Art Papa Forums - Art Lessons, demonstrations and discussions

    Art Societies:

    Colored Pencil Society of America - Dedicated to artists working with colored pencil
    Wildlife Art Society of Australasia - Promotes appreciation of Wildlife art in all media.
    Pastel Society of America - Professional and emerging artists who work in Pastel
    Oil Pastel Society - Promotes the knowledge and understanding of Oil Pastels
    Pastel Society of Australia - Promotes the art of soft pastel paintings
    Plein Air Painters of America - Dedicated to Excellence in Outdoor Painting
    United Kingdom Coloured Pencil Society - UK promotion of Coloured Pencil Artists

    Online Sales Venues:

    Art By Us - International Art Auction site
    Yessy - Online art sales
    Art Cards Wanted - International gallery of ACEO’s for sale, direct from artist
    Etsy - Independant shop owner online mall for a variety of handmade items

    Art Information:

    In The Artist’s Footsteps - The lives and works of famous Australian Artists
    The Painters Keys - Robert Genn’s Twice Weekly Inspiration and Information

    Article: ACEO’s - Art Cards, Editions and Originals

    Tuesday, March 21st, 2006

    ACEO’s are a sub-group of Small Format Art that I also love creating. ACEO is an acronym for “Art Cards, Editions & Originals” - collectable little artwork gems only 2.5″ x 3.5″ in size. Size is the only guideline for artwork to be defined as an ACEO - they can be created in any al all mediums including collaged items, as long as they meet the size requirement, which is the size of a standard sports trading card.

    ACEO’s can be framed and displayed on your office desk or walls or kept in a collection in Trading Card Albums/boxes as a mini art gallery for your coffe table.

    Here are a few of the ACEO’s I have created:

    “Purple Fudge” acrylic Abstract on mattboard

    “Frog On A Log” Prismacolor Pencils on mattboard

    “Lost in Thought” Prismacolor Pencils on mattboard

    More ACEO’s can be viewed in the ACEO gallery on my website

    Michelle

    Article: What is Small Format Art?

    Monday, March 20th, 2006

    Hi and welcome to my new art blog! My name is Michelle, I am a Western Australian artist who specialises in Pet Portraiture and Small Format Art in a variety of mediums, including graphite (black and white), Artists colour pencils, ink, acrylic and pastels.

    Small Format Art (SFA) is defined as any type of artwork that has a maximum size of 14 inches (35.5cm) in any one direction. SFA is collectible, affordable artwork that make wonderful unique displays in homes and offices to suit your own personal decor or personality. SFA can be collected by artist, theme, style, color or an eclectic mix to create an eye catching display to suit your own individual taste. They are especially suited for small display areas such as hallways, mantlepieces and desk tops where larger art work would be unsuitable or simply wouldn’t fit.

    As an artist with three small chilren, I love Small Format Art because the smaller size allows me to be creative and productive within the limited time that I have available. Although SFA’s can take 50-60 hours or more to complete over many days or even weeks, it is also very rewarding to be able to complete a finished painting in a looser more artistic style in just a day or two!

    I love animals and the majority of the artwork I create is animal portraits. As a professional Pet Portrait Artist, my pet portraits are highly detailed and very realistic - if you would like to see examples, they can be viewed on my website http://www.pencilportraits.com.au.

    However, with the SFA I create, I find myself drawn more towards less realistic styles that really express my creativity - I really don’t like labels and would prefer at this point in time not to be limited to creating art within the confines of only one artistic ’style’. Many different art movements inspire me and as a result, the SFA that I create is an eclectic mix of styles that might normally be labelled as abstract expressionism, minimalism, surrealism or modern/contemporary with some representational pieces thrown in for good measure! That is my idea ofArtistic Freedom:)

    I’ve decided to create this blog as a separate entity to my original blog http://www.petportraitartist.blogspot.com/ for several reasons - firstly, for myself I like the idea of maintaining a visual diary of my work and at the same time being able to record some of my thoughts and emotions surrounding each piece, and secondly the majority of Small Format Art that I create will be available for sale in different venues such as Ebay, Art Wanted, Art Cards Wanted and Art By Us and by listing each artwork here in one place, it will be easier for me to keep track of everything, plus I would imagine it will be a bit easier for those who like to collect my artwork:) If you would like to join me on this journey of dscovery, please add this blog to your RSS feed to recieve notification when new art work is added (simply click on the second orange button on the right that says ‘Feed’ - or if you use atom click the first button that says ‘Site Feed’).

    Cheers

    Michelle


    ‘Tall Poppies’ 4″x4″ art squared, acrylic on canvas, 2006

    ‘Solitaire’ 4″x4″ art squared, acrylic on canvas, 2006.

    ‘Ginger Kitty’ 4″x4″ art squared, Prismacolor pencils on blue suedeboard, 2006

    Michelle


    Article: How to take Good Photos of your Pets

    Saturday, November 19th, 2005

    If you have ever tried taking a photo of your beloved pet, you probably already know that it is not always as easy to get the perfect shot. Whether you are taking photos to add to your family album, or a trying to get a great shot to use as reference for a pet portrait, hopefully the following tips will help!

    The number one tip for great looking photos is take them from the subjects level - for pet photo’s, that may mean laying on the floor! By taking the photo from the pet’s level, you will avoid the camera distortion that makes some photos look like caricatures.

    Use natural light if possible, no flash or artificial lighting. The best outside photographs are taken on overcast days with light cloud so that there is plenty of light. If it is sunny, position your pet in the shade and take the photos with the sun behind you. Don’t take the photo in direct sunlight as this will make your pet squint (not to mention get impatient).

    If you do need to take the photo inside, take it near a window that allows plenty of natural lighting, and try to avoid using the flash. Take the photo with your back to the window with the subject facing the window.

    Take photo’s from a distance of 6ft or less. You want your pet to be the main object in the photo, not the surroundings, so zoom in and fill the viewfinder with your pet’s image. This is really important if you are taking a head shot, as you really want to see the eyes and facial expression clearly.

    Make sure you allow some space around your pet in the viewfinder so you don’t accidentally chop off an ear or a nose!

    Take as many photos as you can, a digital camera is excellent as you can keep taking multiple shots in the same pose to give you a good range to choose from.

    When taking photos of pets, enlist the help of another person to stand beside you and get the animals attention with a toy or treat. A shot of the head looking forward and slightly to the one side usually makes a more interesting phot enlargement or pet portrait than a full side-on profile pose - try to take the photo from an angle that shows both eyes (for dogs and cats).

    Photos that capture the subjects personality and character are important. Be patient and be prepared to spend a fair bit of time, possibly over more than one photo session. Dog’s in particular will sense if you are getting frustrated or grumpy, and this will reflect in their demeanor. Try to make it fun – toys and treats usually work!

    Always keep a camera handy and know how to use it in a hurry - candid shots can often truly capture the personality of your pet, but you usually don’t have a lot of time to get your camera organised before the pet moves!

    These two photos of Jess are examples of good close-up and detailed reference photos. I took these photos following all the advice I have have listed above - so you can see these tips will help:)

    Of course, some pets are easier to photograph than others - I have taken several hundred photos of my own dog Tia, a black Shar Pei (you know the dog’s with all the wrinkles) and only one is suitable for use as a reference for her portrait, so I shall keep trying for some better ones.

    Happy snapping!

    Michelle

    http://www.pencilportraits.com.au