Posts Tagged ‘pet portrait artist’

WIP - Rhodesian Ridgeback in charcoal

Saturday, July 12th, 2008

I’m glad to report that the new carpet has been laid and our house is slowly returning to normal - I today I can finally step back inside my studio!

After painting for the last few pieces, I wanted to get my hand back into drawing mode so I started this Rhodesian Ridgeback as a quick experiment see how graphite works on drafting film.  Drafting film is my favourite support for colour pencil work, but I have never tried it for graphite until now (very few artists use it, although I have found one artist who has been using it as a support for thirty odd years).

Photographing it proved very difficult, but I have finally managed to get a semi-reasonable digital image of this one by scanning it, it is still a work in progress, so not yet completed. Film is a really nice surface to work on, and it is more like painting in graphite and charcoal than drawing that is both good and bad, good because it allows very soft transitions of tone, bad because it is easy to lift off and smudge.

I normally only use charcoal for getting my darkest darks in my graphite work, but I found myself leaning more and more towards the charcoal with this one, and whats more, really enjoying ‘painting’ with it using a variety of tools such as chamois, tissue, cotton buds (q-tips), a watercolour brush and a make-up sponge.

Probably the best thing about drafting film though, is the ability to put a different colour paper behind the drawing.  I used a cream parchment paper, and although it dosn’t show properly in the scan (think marbled/mottled cream rather than solid), the effect it gives in real life is really interesting, and something I am looking forward to experimenting a bit more with.

The reference photo was one of my own, and the drawing is approximately A4 in size and when it is finished I will probably offer prints of it at RedBubble.

The first image shows the drawing with the cream backing:

Rhodesian Ridgeback Dog pet portrait

The second image shows the drawing with a white background:

Rhodesian Ridgeback dog portrait

I’d love to know your opinion on my experiment, and if you use drafting film for graphite and charcoal work, or would like a charcoal pet portrait of your own Rhodesian Ridgeback, I’d love to chat;)

Article: Responsible Dog Ownership

Thursday, August 23rd, 2007

Responsible dog ownership starts BEFORE you purchase or adopt your new dog. You should spend as much time as possible researching the different breeds to find which is most suitable to you and your lifestyle, as well as individual breeders before deciding on one that will provide you with a healthy, happy puppy, and as much after sales assistance as you require.

Here are a few other things to keep in mind:

  • Prepare for the arrival of your new pup or dog BEFORE you bring him home ie: make sure you have the food that he is used to eating, a collar, a lead, food and water bowls, appropriate toys and a bed for him to sleep.
  • Obtain the telephone number of a local vet (preferably one with references from another dog owner) and stick it to your fridge permanently. It is also a good idea to have your new puppy vet checked as soon as possible as some breeders health guarantee’s, particularly for communicable diseases are only for a few days.
  • Contact your local council to get your dog’s licence tags(so he doesn’t get destroyed just in case he escapes and is picked up by a ranger) and for details as to Dog laws in your area. The council will also be able to advise you of areas which are suitable for exercising dogs, on and off lead.
  • Make sure your dog is wormed regularly (every three months for intestinal worms, as directed for heart worm) and is vaccinated yearly.
  • Make sure your dog receives good quality food and that fresh water is always available.
  • One of the most responsible things that you can do as a dog owner is take your dog to OBEDIENCE classes. Not only will your dog respond to you better, but you will also be able to socialize your dog with other dogs which is very important, and it may well save your dogs life if he gets loose on a busy street and you are able to call him back.
  • If you are not planning to show your dog or breed from it PLEASE have it DE-SEXED regardless of whether it is male or female. This will not only decrease the number of unwanted and abandoned puppies but can also prevent your pet from developing life threatening health problems, including infections and cancer that affect BOTH sexes.
  • Do not breed from your dog unless you have received an unbiased judgement on your dogs suitability from at LEAST one EXPERT breeder. The breeder you purchased your dog from would be a good place to get a judgement from and they should also be able to suggest a suitable partner (particularly a Stud dog if you have a bitch) IF your dog is suitable for breeding. You should only breed in order to improve the breed - NOT for any possible monetary gain, or because it would be a good experience for the kids
  • Never leave a dog in a car unattended. Dogs can die in less than ten minutes in a hot car.
  • If you cannot completely control your dog at all times (even if a cat runs under its nose!!) please keep it on a lead unless you are in an approved off-lead area. You may prevent your dog from being hit by a car, mauled by another dog or from being a nuisance to another person.
  • If your dog makes a mess in a public place - please clean it up, particularly if it is on someone’s front lawn!
  • Don’t let your dog wander around your neighborhood- it might get hit by a car, picked up by a ranger, mauled in a dog fight or eat poisoned bait, not to mention picking up worms and diseases.
  • Be courteous to other people - just because you don’t mind Rover jumping and slobbering all over you, does not mean that other people will appreciate the same treatment.
  • Ensure that you have a secure, well fenced yard for your dog with adequate shelter from the elements. Regularly check the fencing and repair any damaged areas that may allow your dog to escape or injure itself - also check behind shrubbery along the fence line in case your dog is digging under the fence.
  • The best identification is a micro-chip so that even if the dog looses his collar, he can be returned to you. Collar identification should include your local council tag, as well as an identification tag with contact information to allow for quick return if he/she gets lost. The information tags should have at least ONE telephone number, but preferably two - yours and either a friend, relative or vet in case your dog is injured - and your address (make sure you keep these current!). If your dog requires medical treatment, this can be inscribed on the tag if there is enough space and is likely to ensure your dog is returned to you quickly.
  • Include your dog in your will. By this, I mean you need to make provisions for the welfare and continued care of your dog in case anything happens to you. Another good idea, particularly if you live alone, is to keep a message in your wallet/purse (with your own ID) advising that you have a dog at home that needs to be cared for in case you are involved in an accident. If alternative care is unavailable for your pet, the RSPCA or other rescue organization will be able to help.
  • If you know that your dog is aggressive or unfriendly to people or other dogs do something about it. Keep your dog on a lead when you take it for a walk, warn other people before they get too close and seek professional training advice. In many cases, dog aggression can be avoided by proper socialization and obedience training during the puppy stage, but older dogs may need help from a canine behaviourist.
  • By following the simple suggestions above will help you be a responsible dog owner. And remember, as with most things a little common sense goes a long way!

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    Article: How To Pick a Puppy

    Wednesday, August 22nd, 2007

    Picking a Puppy - Things to Think About Before Purchasing a Dog

    Well dear readers, as you know from reading my previous post Adopting a Rescue Dog we will be adding a new dog to our family sometime in the hopefully not to distant future. Although the time is not right just yet, I can’t help myself and I have been looking at different dog rescue websites and doing a bit of a dog training ‘refresher’ course (gotta be prepared - and yes I would have made a good boy scout. If I was a boy;).

    It really saddens me that there are just so many dogs (and other animals) in rescue because they have been treated as if they are ‘disposable’ possessions. I know there are exceptions and some people have legitimate reasons for surrendering an animal (and that is of course a better option that dumping the poor creature somewhere), but many animals end up in rescue because their owners made irresponsible decisions before and after obtaining the animal.

    How To Pick a Puppy is the first of several articles that I wrote in 1996 (which are just as relevant today) relating to responsible dog ownership, choices and behaviour that I am going to post on my blog, and I hope that they will help my readers who might also be considering a new addition to the family. If there is any important point you think I have missed, please let me know and I will add it in!

    Picking a Puppy

    I am a dog lover not a Dog expert, but from a number of years research, reading books, speaking to dog breeders and dog owners I believe that the following will assist you in your selection. I will make NO attempt to suggest suitable breeds, my aim is to help the prospective buyer understand that just because you like the look of a particular breed DOES NOT make it a suitable because there are many variables that need to be considered other than just the appearance of the breed.

    Owning a dog is a LIFELONG commitment and there are a number of things that you should think about BEFORE you start looking to make sure you choose the breed of dog that is the right one for you. There may be MANY breeds that are not suitable for your lifestyle, and if you put a little thought into the decision you may save yourself a lot of heartache, not to mention the effects that a wrong decision may have on the poor dog. I believe that if more people thought before they bought we would not have anywhere near the number of abandoned dogs that we do. So, ask yourself these questions…..

    WHY DO YOU WANT A DOG?

    You need to think about the reasons that you are considering getting a dog. Do you want a companion only, a lap dog, a friend for the kids or a guard dog? What do you want to do with the dog - show, obedience training, hiking, bring in the cows for milking etc? Not all breeds are suitable for every activity.

    HOW MUCH TIME PER WEEK DO YOU HAVE TO DONATE TO A DOG?

    Different breeds have different time requirements in regards to exercise, grooming and training, and in a lot of breeds, skimping on time spent on the dog can have disastrous effects, for the dog, for yourself and for your possessions.

    HOW BIG IS YOUR YARD AND HOW HIGH ARE YOUR FENCES?

    This will determine the size of dog you should be looking at. You need to make sure that your dog is not going to be able to get out of your yard and possibly hit by a car, picked up by the pound/ranger or mauled by another dog. Don’t forget that some small breeds of dogs can jump very well. I know of several small Terriers who are able to scale six foot fences, but alternatively, some very large breeds of dogs are not very active and may do well in a small yard.

    DO YOU WANT AN INSIDE OR AN OUTSIDE DOG?

    This will determine not only the breed, but also the size of the dog you get. If you want an inside dog, consider the size of your house - will a large breed take up every available inch of space? Is a small but very boisterous dog likely to knock over your priceless China collection? Looks and size can be deceiving, many small breeds are not suitable for apartment living due to their activity level, while some of the larger breeds can be excellent for small houses or apartments because they are real couch potatoes.

    Other breeds need human companionship and are not suitable for leaving outside all the time, neither are breeds that are not suitable for your environment due to coat length, or susceptability to heat exhaustion.

    DO YOU OR ARE YOU PLANNING TO HAVE CHILDREN?

    Some breeds are not recommended for young children particularly, and this is a very important question to consider. The wrong choice could permanently disfigure your child for life and result in your dog being destroyed. Unfortunately, there will always be exceptions in every breed and quite often children are not aware of the implications of fulling a dogs ears or tail, so I feel that no matter how much you may trust your dog, never leave children unsupervised with ANY dog until they are old enough to effectively command the dog - I would suggest until the early teens - depending on the child. I know many people would probably disagree with me on this point, but I personally do not think that it is worth the risk to either child or dog.

    DO YOU HAVE OTHER PETS?

    To avoid bloodshed of dearly loved family pets this is a good point to consider when determining which breed of dog is right for you. Some breeds get on very well with other species, but a lot DON’T so ask the breeder before you buy.

    WHAT SORT OF CLIMATE DO YOU LIVE IN?

    This is an important consideration for the sake of the dog and really is just common sense. Most breeds that originate in cold climates have very thick coats and will suffer terribly in very hot conditions. Likewise, breeds that have very thin coats, or in the case of some breeds that have very little body hair at all, may be particularly susceptible to the cold - they may also be susceptible to sunburn and skin cancers. If you have a climate controlled house or kennel where the dog will spend most of its time, this may not be such a problem.

    HOW MUCH MONEY ARE YOU PREPARED TO REGULARLY SPEND?

    Some breeds have a higher maintenance level for food, veterinary assistance, medical tests, grooming and equipment. Every dog requires food, worming, nail clipping, some level of grooming, vaccinations, hopefully sterilization unless you plan to show or breed, and every dog is at risk of unexpected illness and injury. I am not suggesting that only rich people should have dogs, but if you don’t have or are not prepared to spend a great deal of money, then maybe a long haired breed that requires clipping every six weeks and may be susceptible to ear and eye infections because of the long hair, may not be the most suitable breed for you.

    WHAT TEMPERAMENT DO YOU WANT?

    As with people, dogs have different temperaments, and although no dog will ever match a breed standard 100%, most characteristics, including temperament tend to appear reliably in pure bred dogs. This includes independence - some breeds are very dependant on human company and affection, while others are very independent.

    HOW MUCH EXPERIENCE HAVE YOU HAD WITH DOGS?

    Some breeds of dogs are very dominant and are not usually recommended for first time dog owners. This is because unless you are able to establish dominance early in puppy hood you and your dog will forever be at odds with each other (and this is NOT achieved by physical abuse). Being able to establish dominance is dependant on your understanding that dogs are pack animals and have a very strong hierarchy, and it is important to understand ‘pack logic’ from the dog’s point of view. Many interesting books and articles have been written on this topic, and it is a great idea to read a few, regardless of which breed you purchase, as they will help you to understand some of your dogs behaviour.

    Once you have thought about the above points and anything else that is relevant to you and your family, you should be able to narrow your choices down by doing a bit of research. Surf through the net looking for individual breed pages and FAQ’s, read some books and contact registered Dog Breeders for information.

    If you have done all of the above, here are some points when it comes to picking your puppy:

    * NEVER BUY ON A WHIM!!!!!!

    * NEVER Buy and animal as an unexpected gift or Christmas Present!!!

    * DON’T BUY FROM A PET SHOP, PUPPY MILL OR UNREGISTERED BREEDER.

    * Telephone the breeders and ask about their breed. Most will be happy to answer any questions you might have, and will advise you of the suitability of their breed to your situation. Don’t be afraid to let the breeder know if you do not have a lot of experience with dogs.

    * Go and have a look at several different breeds if you are still not sure which one is right for you. This can best be achieved by attending an All Breed dog show. This will help you decide which breed you like, as well as which breeder’s dogs you prefer.

    * Decide if you want a pet or a show quality pup. This may determine how long you have to wait and how much you will have to pay - show or breeding quality pups usually being fewer in number and more expensive.

    * Have a look at the health of the other dog’s in the kennel. Are they lively, alert and friendly. (Don’t forget, most kennelled dogs will bark at strangers and some breeds will very rarely look friendly, but you can get a general idea - dogs that look down right viscous might not be good parents for a dog that is going to be a family pet).

    * Does the kennel look clean and sanitary?

    * Do the dogs react happily to the owner/handler or do they cringe away, snap or growl?

    * Puppies should be nicely rounded in shape, without being overly fat or skin and bones.

    * Most healthy pups will have shiny, alert eyes and healthy looking coats.

    * Check that the puppies are not infested with ticks and fleas.

    * Ask to see both parents. It is common for breeders to use a stud dog that they do not own, but they may have photos of the dog. Quite often, the bitch will not look in ’show condition’ after whelping a litter. The reason for this is that whelping and feeding a litter places huge demands on the bitch, so she may be a little thin (but not skin and bones), and may ‘blow’ her coat (shed) due to the hormonal changes caused by pregnancy and milk production. She should however, still appear happy, lively, confident, interact well with the owner/breeder and show no signs of illness.

    * Ask the breeder if they have any references from people who have bought their puppies in the past.

    * Make sure that you see all appropriate paperwork including parents pedigrees, medical certificates for tests such as hip dysplasia if this is relevant to the breed, as well as the puppies pedigree papers and vet certificate confirming worming and vaccinations. Be very sceptical of any breeder who is not willing to show you paperwork - if you are unable to see the papers, the breeder may not actually have them! Many people are not concerned about having ‘papers’ for their pet, however, you do want to make sure that if you are paying the price for a pure bred dog, then that is what you are getting. Also, if the breed that you are buying are prone to certain medical conditions, you want to make sure that the parents have been ‘cleared’ by a vet, and the puppies checked (depending on the relevant condition) to ensure that there is the smallest chance possible that the pup you buy will develop the condition.

    It is also a good idea to ask to see the membership card for the canine controlling body (Kennel Council) for the state/country that you are in.

    REMEMBER: It is ultimately your responsibility to research the breeds you are interested in as well as the individual breeder that you finally purchase from. While it is your right to ask as many questions as possible, it is also the breeders right (and responsibility) to ask you questions as well, so don’t be offended if the breeder gives you the third degree!

    Finally, if you do not want or cannot afford a pedigree dog from a registered breeder, there are many reputable dog rescue services that you can adopt from rather than obtaining a dog from a pet shop or backyard breeder. You can obtain a dog of any age from a rescue, (pure breed or mixed) and usually the people who run the rescue will be able to give you some information about each dog they have. If you adopt a dog from a rescue, you may well save it from being destroyed, particularly the older or not so ‘pretty and cute’ dogs which usually don’t get adopted quickly. If you would really like to make a difference to a rescue dog, you might also consider giving a dog that has been mistreated and abused a comfortable, loving home for the remainder of its days - you would be amazed at the love and devotion that you will receive in return.

    Subscribe to this feed Animal Art By Michelle

    To purchase a variety of wall art, greeting cards and t-shirts featuring my art and photography, Please visit my RedBubble Gallery. Purchases can be made in different currencies (USD, Euro, GBP, AUD) and can be shipped worldwide.A variety of wall art, gift ware and apparel featuring my artwork is also available in my
    GiftShop at CafePress.

    Tara - Cat Pet Portrait demo Part 2

    Sunday, August 19th, 2007

    I finally have had time to post an update of Tara’s pet portrait painting.

    The first two photos are close-up views of the eyes and fur base colours.

    Left eye:

    Tara Cat Pet Portrait in progress

    Right eye: This shot also shows some of the brown tones that have been used in the base of the tabby fur.

    Tara Cat Pet Portrait in progress

    In this next photo I have added the cream markings on her mouth and I am beginning to model the shape of her face under the white fur. Although grey colours are often used to depict white fur, using other shadow colours of the right value such as pinks, violet and lilac can add depth into the white fur without making it look dirty (which is easy to do on drafting film).

    I think I forgot to mention this previously, but I intensified the strength of the whiskers in white pencil earlier on to avoid loosing them in the fur. At the end I will go back and redefine them and put shadows in where needed.

    Tara Cat Pet Portrait painting in progress

    The next update will include the final version of Tara’s Pet Portrait.


    Weimaraner Pet Portrait - Grey Ghost WIP

    Monday, August 13th, 2007

    This is the first pet portrait I have done of a Weimaraner. I am creating this one with a slightly looser, more “painterly” style rather than my normal “include every hair” level of detail.

    This is on drafting film (I doubt that I will ever go back to any other support! using colour pencils, mostly Derwents, Prismacolors and the odd FC Polychromos.

    As usual, I sketch in the basic landmarks, work the eyes to about 90-95% completion (if I don’t get them right, the rest of the portrait will not come together) and the establish the highlights.

    Weimaraner - work in progress image 1

    In the next photo, I have started to work in the shadow areas on the chest and body using a French Grey (sorry I can’t remember the % of FG, I tend to work intuitively with the colours, and rarely keep a track of the colours I am using).

    I prefer to have a full range of values in my artwork, this can sometimes be a challenge with images like this one where there is fairly strong backlighting. We’ll see if I can pull it off;)

    weimaraner_2.jpg

    In the next image I have added some indigo to deepen the shadow areas.

    weimaraner_3.jpg

    Now I have started working in the midtones on the chest and body, working on the shapes for the different values rather than focusing on individual hairs.

    Weimaraner - work in progress image 3

    I have continued building the chest and body with a variety of pinks, mauves, purples and french greys. The lips have been done with browns, pinks, light purple and black grape for the shadow area. I’ve also started the background using a variety of soft subtle greens. While a stronger background would definitely make the dog ‘pop’, I really want to portray the soft, loving side of the Weimaraner, so I have deliberately chosen more subtle colours.

    Weimaraner - work in progress image 4a

    A few more layers have been added to the background and I have started the first layers on the face and nose, which is looking a little wonky in this image, probably because I took the photo at an angle to avoid reflection of the drafting film.
    Weimaraner - work in progress image 4

    Thats the last update I have at the moment for this pet portrait. I’m having fun experimenting with a slightly different style, and would love to know what you think, so please leave a comment!

    Until I return with another update, here is some information on the Weimaraner breed, just in case your interested!

    Weimaraner Breed Profile

    Country of Origin: Germany

    Colour: Silver-grey

    Coat type: There are two coat types, the Short haired which is smooth and sleek and the long haired variety which have a soft medium length top coat, with long feathering on the ears, tail and breeching and moderate feathering on the legs, belly and chest.

    Temperament: Alert, affectionate, willing, obedient (when trained) dedicated and devoted to their family, love being the centre of attention.

    Group: Gun Dog

    Size: Dogs 59-70 cm and bitches 57-65 cm.

    Weight: dogs - 30 to 40 kg, bitches - 25 to 35 kg

    Original Purpose: Originally bred as a versatile hunting dog, and they are still used for this purpose today.

    The Weimaraner is good natured and totally devoted to his owners, although they can be aloof with strangers. Affectionately known as the ‘grey ghost’, the Weimaraner is one of the worlds most versatile hunting dog that is able to point, retrieve, track and hold at bay. They are highly intelligent and excel in Obedience and Agility trials, and make wonderful companions if they are allowed to be a part of the family and are given an outlet for their intelligence.

    Weimaraners need contact and companionship with their owners and are an energetic breed that needs lots of physical and mental stimulation to avoid boredome problems developing. The coat requires minimal regular grooming to remove dead hair (more frequent during coat changes) as well as regular ear cleaning, nail clipping and dental care.

    Weimaraners are beautiful dogs - but that dosn’t make them suitable for everyone, so if you are considering adding one of these gorgeous dogs to your family, make sure you thoroughly research the breed and spend time getting to know them to make sure they are the right breed for you and your lifestyle.

    Gilley - Rescue Greyhound Dog Pet Portrait

    Tuesday, May 15th, 2007

    This is a small acrylic painting I am working on of Gilley, a rescue Greyhound from the UK. Greyhounds have the most beautiful, liquid, expressive eyes that are an absolute joy to paint. As a breed, Greyhounds have such a regal bearing that the deep purple background seemed appropriate for Gilley’s Pet Portrait.

    With these smaller paintings, I am really trying to loosen up and capture the essence of the animal without being totally pre-occupied with capturing every last detail like I normally do in my pencil portraits.

    I usually do my initial sketch on paper then transfer it to the canvas, but I thought I would just sketch straight onto the canvas this time.

    Progress Painting Greyhound Pet Dog Portrait

    Progress Painting Greyhound Dog Pet Portrait

    But graphite on canvas dosn’t erase very well, so next time I will transfer my sketch the usual way.

    Progress Painting Greyhound Pet Dog Portrait

    Gilley’s face still need some more work and I need to finish painting the sides of the canvas as I have the painting continueing around the edges.

    (8″x10″, acrylic on gallery wrapped canvas)

    Michelle

    WIP3 Black Labrador Painting - Nearly Finished!

    Sunday, May 6th, 2007

    I’ve managed to grab a few hours here and there to get some more work done on Poppy.

    Basically just adding more thin layers and creating depth in the fur using paynes grey, ultramarine, burnt umber and some reddish brown mixes.

    Also adding more thin glazes to the grass to blend the background, adding individual blades of grass and flowers stalks and a few flower buds using different greens mixed with some of the darker paint used in the dogs fur.

    Labrador Pet Portrait painting in progress 9

    I’ve also started to add to the flowers to create the shadows and highlights that will give them form.  The flowers are proving to be the biggest challenge, partly because I am working from several different reference photos because I don’t know what poppies look like in detail and because none of the photos have the flowers as I want them, I am basically making it up as I go:)

    Labrador Pet Portrait Painting in Progress

    In the image above, I’ve started to add the darkest paint to turn Poppy into a black dog.  The trick here is to avoid making her look like a big black blob!  The highlights in her eyes really make her come alive on the canvas.

    In this last photo, Poppy is finally looking like a Black Labrador, even though she still needs a fair bit more work.  And I think she needs some liposuction on those lips, so I will have to post another update, and hopefully the final image, when she has had that necessary face lift, and had her whiskers added!

    Painting in Progress Labrador dog Pet Portrait

    Michelle

    Poppy WIP2 - Progress of a labrador Painting

    Tuesday, May 1st, 2007

    I have done a bit more modelling of Poppy’s face and have started on her eyes. It takes many thin glazes (layers) of paint of various shades of browns and golds to achieve the luminous liquid look of animal eyes, but having made a start on her eyes, Poppy is starting to come to life.

    Labrador Painting in Progress

    In this next progress shot, I have done a bit more work on the field and have started to add in the red poppy flowers. I’ve also continued with the modelling of her face and started the basic underpainting on her body. Obviously the underpainting is just blocking in shapes (shadows and lights) to create the form of her body before the detail starts to go on in the top layers. I’ve also added some purple to the paynes grey to tie the background in with the dog’s fur, to give depth to the darkest shadows and to start creating some of the red highlights that are apparent in the reference photo of the black labrador retriever that I am using. Thats a handy co-incidence that will work well to tie in the colours in the dog with the background:)

    This painting is in a very, very ugly stage that seems to be lasting forever. As much as it looks like it now, this will not be an abstract painting of a dog when it is finished. LOL - at least I hope not!

    I am working this painting in the same way that many oil painters use - multiple thin glazes of colour, so it is pretty time consuming. This has taken about 16 hours so far and I would say has at least that many more to go.

    Labrador Painting in progress

    Michelle

    Greyhound Painting

    Friday, April 27th, 2007

    This is my latest painting of a gorgeous rescue Greyhound “Teddy”.  Rendering his fur realistically was a bit of a challenge.  I will probably leave this for a few days then make some minor adjustments before varnishing it.

    This one is acrylic on gallery wrapped canvas.

    Teddy - Acrylic Greyhound painting Greyhound Photo reference painting

    Michelle

    Black and tan Long haired Dachshund dog art

    Sunday, November 26th, 2006

    I am thoroughly enjoying working with this velour paper with my pastels and I am really pleased with how this portrait of Marcus, a Long Haired Dachshund has turned out. I can see that my pastels and this velour support and quickly going to become my favourite medium for working in.

    I couldn’t help myself, after finishing this one I have finally started a portrait of my own dog Tia, she is a black Shar-Pei and it is proving to be a very interesting challenge creating black wrinkles that look realistic! I will add a blog entry with her portrait when it is finished.

    Long Haired Dachshund Pastel Pet portrait on velour